NEW YEAR: OLD LOVE & NEW LOVE

vintagemorrhar.blogspot.com

I can't think of a better way to kick off the new year than with an old love - the Mora Klok (clock).  While watching my favorite Swedish show, Historieätarna, I got inspired again by the Mora clock.  Let me say that Historieätarna is easily one of the best shows out there.  The concept is that they live, eat, dress and sleep like Swedes of a particular period in history for several days.  Sounds boring, right?  But it's not.  The production value, the way it is shot and the interaction between the two program leaders is fantastic.  I'm a little obsessed, actually.  Lotta Lundgren is stunning and it seems they make a point of showing you a little glimpse of Erik's rumpa (yes, that means what you think it means).  If you're in Sweden check it out on SVT.  Now, back to the Mora clock.

wilke.nl

 
There is such an understated elegance to the Mora design and it is easy to understand why its popularity has lasted for so long.  The girls over at Remodelaholic have not only updated Mora with a fresh bright yellow look but have also shared a DIY tutorial.  Warning: this particular DIY is a little on the advanced side.  Maybe it's a project for the future.  Check it out here.

remodelaholic.com

 And, again, if you are in Sweden check out Historieätarna on SVT or SVTplay.  I think you'll love it too.

Historieätarna via SVT

Posh DIY Christmas Tree

Stockholm is dark this time of year.  We get about seven hours of daylight now and by Christmas that number will fall just below six hours.  If that weren't enough, we also had one of the darkest Novembers in history.  As of three days ago Stockholm had had 3.5 hours of sunlight ALL MONTH!  We were blessed with a few more hours this weekend which I think may have even doubled that number bringing us to approximately 7 hours of sun for November.  Things were getting gloomy.  I decided to get the tree up early so we could add a little cheer and light to our dark Nordic lives.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again, everything in Sweden is expensive and Christmas trees (Julgranar) are no exception.  Last year the cheapest one I saw was 450 kr, which is about $70 Canadian.  So, my middle guy and the dog went to the park and collected some sticks.  We tied them in the shape of a tree and hung it in the living room.  The decorations are Brian Gluckstein Home, that we brought with us from Toronto so the only thing we paid for this year was twine.  This DIY tree is bright, makes no mess, takes up no space, cost nothing and no tree has been chopped down.  I think we may have a new family tradition.

DIY - IKEA Task Lamp Update

Copper and bronze have slowly been coming into the limelight over the past few years.  Earlier this year at the Stockholm Furniture and Light Fair, during Stockholm Design Week, it was everywhere.  I decided to update a pair of old black IKEA Antifoni task lamps by spray painting them copper. 

IKEA Antifoni Task Lamp gets a Copper Update

The process is easy but a little smelly so better to do it outside if you can.

1.  Protect the areas you don't want painted (cord, bulb socket and switch) with masking tape.

2.  If you are super thorough and love prep work, then you can give the metal a light sanding with fine sand paper.

3.  Spray paint the lamp.

You can find acrylic spray paint at most hardware stores but the selection may be sparse.  I went to a little shop here in Stockholm (HL Store) that specializes in street gear, skateboards and graffiti and other more "urban" arts.  The spray paint colour selection was very impressive and the prices were better too.

4.  If you go with a copper or bronze look you'll need to seal it with a spray lacquer otherwise it will show fingerprints.  Wait for the original colour to dry for about an hour or 2.  Wait 2 hours between lacquer coats.

And, that's it.  

Top 5 Posts of 2013

While we're all recovering from the holiday season, let's take a look back at five of the most popular posts from 2013.

 Savory Tomato and Roasted Red Pepper Soup

With most of us thinking about a healthier lifestyle, this soup is delicious and full of vitamins.

Japanese Paper Maché Lamp

A fun DIY that looks great and even the kiddies can do it.

Custom Red Paint

How we got a gorgeous dynamic red paint from basic exterior applications.

 Beautiful Draperies from Inexpensive Tab Curtains

Here's an IKEA hack converting their inexpensive tab curtains into beautiful, lined drapes.

Furniture and Lighting Fair - Stockholm Design Week 2013

Stockholm Design Week 2013 is where Design Stockholm began, so how appropriate to say a final goodbye to 2013 and kick-off 2014.

DIY - Custom Red Paint

Deep, rich red is one of my go-to colours.  It is so dynamic and works well for all types of different spaces.  When we came to Sweden I had the worst time trying to find a red I could love.  It happened one day, as I was deciding how I felt about our newly painted black front door, the reflection of our traditional red snickarbod hit the black and there it was, the rich red I had been searching for.  So I mixed the two paints and the result was perfect!

Door with Polyacrylic Seal

All you need is:

- A paint brush
- Black façade paint (färg) and some Fula rödfärg.
- Mix them by adding the red pigment to the black paint until you get the colour you like, testing on some spare wood as you go.*
- Polyacrylic

* It is very important to note a few things:

1.  Rödfärg is a pigment made of copper minerals.  It is intended for exteriors.  Our front hallway is separated from the rest of the house by an inner door.  The paint smells for a few days so keep things well ventilated.  We actually sealed the painted door once it had dried with a polyacrylic to protect the paint and make it safer for the indoors.  The seal also made the colour that much richer.

2.  As noted above, rödfärg is made from mineral pigment.  It separates.  I took a soup ladel to dig up the pigment and mixed that with the black façade paint.

3.  The colour in your mixture may be a little deceiving.  You need to test often as the motion of spreading the paint will make the pigments burst thereby releasing the red colour.

The result is a wonderful, dynamic red that you will love!

Adjacent Wall without Seal


Swedes are pretty well acquainted with the inexpensive Fula rödfärg and will likely need it for the sealing of their house or summer house at some point.  I understand that the Fula rödfärg is likely not available in North America.  I suggest, if you love rich red, Sherwin Williams' Concepts in Colour Series - "Crabby Apple" is a delicious red!










DIY - Japanese Paper Maché Lamp Shade

This DIY project is super easy and the results are totally custom.  The patchwork motif is a classic going back centuries.  These days patchwork is having a bit of a renaissance showing up not only in its familiar residential application but also in commercial interiors.  There is an easy comfort about the patchwork look and it is so versatile.  Using Japanese paper gives this project a delicate elegance.

What you'll need:

Paper shade lamp - I like the Ikea Väte series
A variety of Japanese Paper patterns (Chiyogami or Katazome-shi)
Paper maché paste (white flour and water)
Sharp scissors

Step 1.  Select Your Lamp Shade

The easiest approach to this project is to choose a plain paper shade like Ikea's Väte series.  They are ready to go and really inexpensive.

Step 2.  Select Your Favorite Japanese Paper Patterns

Find a supplier of Japanese paper near you.  For those in Stockholm try Kreatima or Ljunggrens.  In Toronto you should check out The Paper Place on Queen West across from Trinity Bellwoods.  The best types are Chiyogami or Katazome-shi as they are incredibly beautiful yet equally sturdy.  Avoid the thinner tissues.  They'll break once wet with paste and you won't see the designs on your shade when the lamp is on.  Most suppliers of Japanese paper have a selection of many of the patterns cut into smaller squares which gives you so much more to choose from.  Your patterns are up to you but while they should of course contrast, they also need to jive with each other somehow (sharing a common colour for example).

 Step 3.  Cut The Paper into Smaller Segments

This is really easy to do.  Take the small squares and cut them diagonally down the middle.  Do this as many times as you like until each segment is the size you prefer.  Don't cut them too small as you will lose the beauty of the paper's pattern.  I also cut thin strait strips which I used along the edges of some of the segments for visual interest.

 

Step 4.  Mix Your Paper Maché Paste

The amount of paste you'll need depends on the size of your lamp.  You can always make more as you go.

In a bowl mix the white flour and water until you get a paste consistency.

 

 

Step 5.  Stick the Paper Segments to the Shade

Dip the segments in to the paste making sure to cover the entire segment.  Then smooth them to the shade wiping away the excess.  Continue until the shade is covered.  As I mentioned, you can use strait strips to run along some of the segment edges for visual interest or to clean up some gaps that may have occurred.  I also used the strips to finish the top and bottom openings of the shade.

And that's it!  Let it dry and you are ready to use your unique new lamp. 

Wallpaper Origami Crane Mobile

Let's not beat around the bush, babies are expensive little things. The baby-wear market is huge and growing, everyone wants to cash in. I have a problem spending money on things that I'll only have for a short time and I don't like exposing my children to the marketing of the corporate entertainment giants. This DIY project allows you to make a beautiful mobile with minimal cost and resources. When you're done with it you can simply recycle the paper and send the sticks back to the backyard (or park, or wherever you got them).

What you'll need:

A drill
5 squares of wallpaper scraps or Japanese paper (colour of your choice)
Needle and thread
2 meters ribbon (width and colour up to you)
2 sticks (minimum width 1 cm)
2 eyelet hooks and 1 nut
Carpenter's glue (for good measure)

Step 1 - Collect Your Sticks

As mentioned above the sticks should be wide enough that you can drill a small hole through the centre and either end. One stick should be longer than the other so that your hanging cranes don't get tangled. Clear the sticks of bark, the drier the stick the easier it will be to remove the bark.

Step 2 - Drill Holes

The hole has to be big enough for the hook to clear. The size of the hook will be indicated on the package and you use that same measurement for the drill bit. The holes on either end can be smaller as you will be threading a needle through those. Feed the hook through the centre holes of the sticks making sure that the longer stick is on top.

Step 3 - Fold Origami Cranes

Unless you've been lucky enough to get one-on-one training with origami, the instructions can seem very complicated  Click here for a pretty comprehensive tutorial.

Step 4 - Attach Cranes

Now you can attach the cranes to the outer edges of the sticks by threading through holes. Wrap around many times to make it extra secure and safe for baby.  They should dangle but always keep in mind the total height of mobile. You want it to hang over crib but never be low enough that baby can reach it once they are able to stand. The fifth crane will be threaded through the nut, which will then be attached to the bottom of the hook, thereby securing the sticks. You can further strengthen everything by dabbing some carpenter's glue (or white craft glue) to the bolt and the edges where the thread meets the sticks.

Step 5 - Attach Ribbon

Attach the ribbon to both hooks. Triple check your height and adjust ribbon length accordingly. Once you have decided the length, you can further secure the knots at either end by sewing them. I wrapped the screws with ribbon to soften the look, this is optional.

Now screw top hook to ceiling.

Beautiful Draperies from Inexpensive Tab Curtains

Beautiful, high quality draperies really can make a room.  But they can cost a fortune.  Even fabric in bulk can be too expensive for the average person.  I'll show you how to get great fully lined and pleated drapes for a fraction of the cost.

This project highlights tab curtains.  Here's my problem with tab curtains, no matter how much arranging you do, they always look messy and cheap. And this gives me anxiety, really!  I fear ever opening or closing them so as not to disrupt the delicate balance achieved through arranging and rearranging, often by balancing on a chair.  This is not a good relationship to have with your window treatments.

In the end you really need to invest the time in taking your curtains to the next level.

You will need:

Ikea Lenda curtains - 199kr about $30.  You can use whatever tab curtains you like but I like the linen look of the Lenda)

Ikea Knoppa single bed sheets (as a liner) - 19kr, about $3 (each panel requires one of these, so 2 per package of Lenda)

A sewing machine - if you are a serial decorator like me or simply prefer custom, this is one of the best investments you will make.  It will pay for itself in no time.

An iron

Fabric Tape

Step 1.  Measure the length needed from the rod to the floor

A couple of rules about drapery:

A. Drapes look best if they hang as close as possible to the ceiling.  This adds height to the room and makes the drapes that much grander.

B.  Draperies should, at the very least, hit the floor.  Better still if they rest on the floor by an inch (3 cm) or so.  Drapes should never be higher than the floor, not even slightly.  Think about when someone's pants are too short.  Not a good look.  So ere on the side of caution here - more is more.  Always remember that there needs to be a couple of extra inches for the hems.

You may not have to do any cuts if you have an average height ceiling and make allowances for a thick hem at the floor (take a quick look at step 5).

Step 2.  Sew Down Tab

The tab will be folded down and attached to the inside of the curtain along the existing seam.  Make sure there is enough room in the loop to easily clear the rod and make for smooth opening and closing.  The stitch you use is up to you.  For me it's like the difference between Times New Roman and Stylus BT.  Choose the stitch you like the best.  What you do with the remainder of the tab is also up to you.  I left it in place as I think it adds to the fullness and it won't be seen.  If you chose a thinner curtain then you should remove the remainder of the tab.

DIY Draperies - Fold and sew down tab

Step 3.  Sew Edges of Curtain and Sheet Together

You will need to hem the sheet as it is wider than the panel.  I kept the liner wider than the curtain panel to create fullness ( I will explain how to make it fit in the next step), again that is up to you.  Once you have decided the width of the liner, you can fasten it by ironing it flat with some fabric tape.  This will save you a step of sewing.  Now sew the liner to the panel coming in about an inch (3 cm) on either end.

DIY Draperies - Attach liner to curtain

 

Step 4.  Sew Liner to the Top

Now you will sew the top of the liner to just below where you sewed down the tab.  If you made the liner the exact width needed then you can just go ahead and sew it on.  If you went the wider, fuller route, you will need to plan where small pleats will go along the seam (affix with strait pins) so that you don't get a big bulk of liner fabric at either end.

DIY Draperies - Attach liner to panel just below tab loop

 

 

Step 5.  Make Bottom Hem

Double check your length by hanging the drapes in place to see exactly where the bottom hem will go.  First make a small fold (an inch or so) and secure by ironing with fabric tape.  Now fold where drape will rest on floor.  You likely won't have to make any cuts as the higher the hem the nicer the drapes will look.  In fact, many designers will tell you to make the bottom hem the same height as your baseboards. 

Et, Voila!  or as they say in Sweden "Slut!"*  The spaces between the tabs will create a type of faux pleat.  Now you are ready to hang your draperies.

* Glossary 
 Slut (pronounced sloot) - this means the end or finished or last.  Perhaps we can take a whole post simply looking at how Swedish is the anti-English