THE LUCIATÅG: IT'S NOT WHAT YOU THINK

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St. Lucia is celebrated on December 13 and is a big deal here in Sweden.  Lucia essentially kick starts the Jul celebrations.  Last year I happened to be at IKEA when I first heard about the Luciatåg - or the Lucia Train.  People seemed pretty excited about it.  Excited is not a term one often finds themselves using to describe Swedes so I thought, "Wow, this is going to be fun!  My first Luciatåg, and at IKEA.  Jätteroligt!"  I had an image in my mind of people in a congaline singing Jul songs in the same spirit as Midsommar's Sma Grodorna or like the Ekdahl's Julafton in Bergman's Fanny and Alexander or even a toy train with godis.

But, I was more than a little deflated to see a group of carolers walk in dressed in white singing, well, carols.  "Oh, is this the Lucy train?"  That was the Lucy "train".  I'll tell you the reason why the Luciatåg is so dry in comparison to Midsommar and Julafton.  It usually happens in the afternoon so there is not any heavy drinking involved. Without the booze this Swedish tradition remains reserved, just like the Swedes themselves.

Click here if you want to get started practicing for the real fun.  Learn to sing Nu Är det Jul Igen, like the Ekdahls.

Sommarstängt and Welcome Back

Sommarstängt is a phenomenon in Sweden when shops or businesses shut down for a period of time during the summer.  Don't even dream of getting anything done during the month of July.  And then there are several weeks during August when people try to catch the last of summer before the dark sets in. 

With a move in mid-June and no daycare set up in the new location and all community services on vacation, I found myself in a state of Sommarstängt.  Now everything is back in order and hopefully we can get back to design in Stockholm.

Nu kör vi!

5 Essentials for a Perfect Swedish Midsommar

Swedish Midsommar is the celebration of the summer solstice which marks the longest day of the year.  Midsommar is by far the most popular holiday on the Swedish calender, falling on the weekend of the 22nd of June.  Midsommar was once believed to be a very magical time of year.  While many of the traditions are still practiced, Midsommar is a time to be with family, get out of the city if you can and to drink a lot of alcohol.

Krans

Krans is the flower head dress that Swedes wear at Midsommar.  The young maiden must choose 7 varieties of wild flowers and interlace them into a crown made of birch branches.  At the end of the night she is to put the flowers under her pillow and when she sleeps it is said she will dream of her future husband.

Midsommar Stång

The Midsommar stång is a large cross with a ring hanging from either arm.  Like the krans, the Midsommar stång is covered in summer flowers.  It will be the location of and jumping off point for the following essentials... 

Songs

Singing is a big part of Swedish culture, especially when drinking is involved.  There are several to choose from but Små Grodorna is good for the whole family.

Små Grodorna (the song that quacks about frogs)

Små Grodorna, små Grodorna

Är lustiga att se

Små Grodorna, små Grodorna

Är lustiga att se

Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de

Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de

Koack, ack, ack. Koack, ack, ack.

Koack ack ack ack kaa.

Little frog, little frog

So funny to see

Little frog, little frog

So funny to see

No ears, no ears, no tail do they have.

No ears, no ears, no tail do they have.

Koack, ack, ack. Koack, ack, ack.

Koack ack ack ack kaa.

Dance

Now that you have the attire, the Midsommar stång and the songs in order, you'll need to know how to dance like a Swede at Midsommar.  Nothing complicated here.  A very popular dance is where the entire group holds hands in a circle around the stång, collectively circling to the left and then the right,  singing either the aforementioned små grodorna song or a simple diddy that recounts the days of the week and all the chores associated with a particular day - a good chunk of the week is devoted to laundry.

 

Snaps

 And here is the magic ingredient that gets it all going,  Swedes are reserved.  It's cultural.  They are programmed that way not only behaviorally but linguistically.  The language itself does not give way to over expression.  Snaps, or Aquavit as it is called here, is an herb flavored hard liquor that is taken in shots.  Snaps is the traditional beverage but really it can be snaps... or vodka or beer or wine or all of the above.  If you ask a Swede directly if they partake, most will deny it...with a sly smile.  Midsommar is when the Swedes let loose ... once the kids are in bed of course ... or thereabouts.

Traditional Midsommar Krans

 (I slipped some peonies in there.  Not exactly wild but you get the picture.)

5 Things You Need to Know About Swedish Easter

1.  Påsk

Swedes call Easter Påsk (posk) and when they speak English to you they call it Eastern.  For some reason Swedes can't grasp dropping the "n" sound.  It's one of their very few hiccups with the English language.

2. Eggs

Anyone from North America has this down pat.  The Swedes decorate eggs in just the same manner.  Easy, except for one difference, they hang them on branches around the house.  Which brings us to our next point.

3.  Feathers

Swedes don't stop at colourful decorated eggs for decoration at Easter, there are colourful feathers too.  Like the eggs, and often with the eggs, feathers are hung from branches in or around the house or from a tree outside. Because I'm fussy and I think it looks silly, this tradition, no matter how logical the connection between eggs and feathers may be, has been hard for me to fully embrace. 

4.  Witches

Sorry kids, there is no Easter Bunny.  Not in Sweden.  Here's where things get a little confusing.  No, there isn't an Easter bunny but there are witches.  Nice witches of course who look like wholesome country folk. They fly to their annual witch conference with a pot of coffee on their brooms.  Swedish kids reenact the flight of the traveling witches by dressing up (kerchief on head, apron, freckles, broom and empty coffee carafe) and then visit the neighbors.  And this brings us to the final necessity for Swedish Påsk...

5.  Godis (Goodies) and Greeting Cards

Swedes eat the most candy (godis) per capita.  If there is any way to get godis on any other day than Saturday -the designated godis day- the Swedes will do it.  Those empty carafes that the kids bring with them around the neighborhood at Påsk are to hold candy.  Like Halloween, there is an exchange, the witches prepare little greeting cards and the receiver gives godis in return.  It must be said that this particular aspect of Påsk is reserved for the more entrepreneurial kids - the go-getters.

Our youngest dressed as a witch at his Dagmama's* house

*Dagmama is the person (woman) who watches the children during the day at a private daycare.

Kräftor - Sweden's Farewell to Summer

By the middle of August, the Swedes know all too well that the end of summer is near.  The nights become longer, darker and cooler.  There are even a few scatterings of early fallen leaves. As a final farewell to their beloved summer the Swedes have their Kräftor celebration - Kräftskiva.  There is no particular day reserved for kräftor, rather an open time slot to celebrate when (and how often) you like.  But it should fall within the last 2 or 3 weeks of August.

Kräftor are essentially crayfish, which are simply boiled in salt water and fresh dill. Kräftor are small and yield an alarmingly small, yet hard to attain, amount of meat.  Especially when you consider the heavy emphasis (again) placed on drinking ... a lot.

If you are new to Sweden or want to celebrate like a Swede in your part of the world here are the basics.

1.   Kräftor

You can use local crayfish (if you are not here in Sweden) or you can buy them at Ikea ready to eat after you thaw them.  You can of coarse, if money's no object, use lobster instead.  Might be more fulfilling and you may not get as drunk...or you just drink more.  In Sweden you can get kräftor everywhere at any grocery store, either fresh or frozen.

2.  New Potatoes

The Swedes have a surprising relationship to potatoes.  They eat them at pretty much every celebration.  The best ones for kräftskiva are still covered in dirt.

3.  Sill (pickeled herring)

Like potatoes, sill is a Swedish staple.  It comes in dill, cream or mustard sauce.  There is a basic version of this in most grocery stores in Canada.  Otherwise, yep, Ikea.

4.  Snapps

Another term for it is Aquavit.  You may be able to get this wherever you are but I think outside of Sweden and Northern Europe it is pretty rare.  They call it snapps but it is herb flavoured hard liquor. You can make your own by letting caraway seeds sit in a bottle of vodka for a couple of days or weeks.  Like Midsommar you are expected to enjoy drinking ridiculous amounts of hard liquor and beer (öl), which are accompanied by (or the cause of) the next Kräftskiva essential.

5.  Drinking Songs

Swedes are quite reserved and composed.  So it's surprising the silliness that unfolds during a booze fueled celebration.  I can only imagine that the Vikings are to blame for this more, ahem, rowdy side of the Swedish disposition.  Here are a couple of the most popular and well known drinking songs, with translation.

Helan går (a good starter song)

Helan går

Sjung hopp faderallan lallan lej

Helan går

Sjung hopp faderallan lej

Och den som inte helan tar

Han heller inte halvan får

Helan går

Sjung hopp faderallan lej

Drink it all down

Sing hopp faderallan lallan lej

Drink it all down

Sing hopp faderallan lej

And he who does not drink it all

Does not even deserve a half

Drink it all down

Sing hopp faderallan lej

Små Grodorna (the song that quacks about frogs)

Små Grodorna, små Grodorna

Är lustiga att se

Små Grodorna, små Grodorna

Är lustiga att se

Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de

Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de

Koack, ack, ack. Koack, ack, ack.

Koack ack ack ack kaa.

Little frog, little frog

So funny to see

Little frog, little frog

So funny to see

No ears, no ears, no tail do they have.

No ears, no ears, no tail do they have.

Koack, ack, ack. Koack, ack, ack.

Koack ack ack ack kaa.

You can certainly make up your own songs too.  Just be sure to write them down as the best will likely be inspired by the most alcohol. 

Skål!

Stockholm Design Week 2013 - Lost in Södermalm

As this is a blog about my design adventures as someone new to Sweden, I'll be honest.  I didn't make it to my desired destination that day.  Well, I did, but..I didn't.

I intended to check out the Knitted House exhibit at the Architecture Museum.  According to the app that I had downloaded, the museum is found in Södermalm.  What a great way to start design week and I could wander around the museum exploring my other love, architecture.

I had researched the route in advance.  There were two ways I could go and both I had taken previously.  I chose to cross over Gamla Stan (the old town) and was careful not to veer off my route for any reason.  I reached the bridge but the sign said "Nacka", so I went in the other direction to find another bridge.

Did I mention it was snowing?  A lot.

After approximately ten minutes of looking for another bridge and at zero visibility, I decided to turn back.

This is a sliding doors moment for me because had I been able to see more than three metres in front of me, I would have been able to see another bridge and by pure accident I would have ended up in Skeppsholmen, which is where the Modern Museum is and where the signature exhibit for Design Week, Glass Elephant, was being held and well, where I was actually supposed to be going.

But I turned back and crossed that Nacka bridge and yes, I got to Södermalm.  Once over the bridge, I took a quick peek at the Google map on my tablet - for good measure.  I climbed up the stairs in front of me and thereby to Södermalm proper.  I had accidentally found my way to the main drag, Götgatan.  With a self satisfied chuckle, I headed up the street.  That was easy!

Did I mention the snow?  Not the fluffy light-hearted stuff people write songs about.  This is the stuff the breaks a gal's spirit, heavy and wet.

I made it to the intersection, I was there, or so I thought.  As I walk along the street to the museum I am already a little worried.  I think to myself, maybe it's just my North American mentality but why is the street so small?  And, I don't know, but why aren't there any signs?  Hmm, maybe Swedes aren't that interested in architecture museums and that's why it's so remote.  As I travel farther along the street I begin to feel more and more uneasy.  And people seem to be looking at me as though I'm trespassing on their turf.  Perhaps these people could have helped me find my way on their turf.  Perhaps.  I didn't ask.  No, this was personal.  Me vs. Södermalm, me vs. Sweden!

Back I go to Götgatan.  But here is a bustling city centre.  The culture school, signs (yes, signs!) for an exhibit at the aforementioned modern museum, a market and a subway station...this must be it.  I try again... and back.  Up some stairs... and back.  I decide I need a coffee break. The snow was seeping through my wool coat.  I didn't think I needed a thicker coat as I was supposed to be inside most of the day.  That was clearly becoming an unattainable dream.  I didn't ask for directions at the coffee shop.  They didn't speak English anyway.  Everyone in Stockholm speaks English!  I decide to cancel the trip and go home.

Ugh.  The snow.  It seems that in Södermalm the wind blows in a circle and no matter which direction you turn, snow attacks your face. One aggressive snowflake stabbing you in the eyeball is unpleasant, two, irritating, nämen*...all day long!?!

You get the picture.

Summary

I remained lost on a street very annoyingly called Ringvagen, like an insidious reminder that I may never get off this merry-go-round.   I did eventually get off but not before another bridge dilemma, which I will spare you and another coffee shop with no English...and a lot more snow.

I didn't see the Knitted House.  The Knitted House is not on Södermalm. Remember that bridge I would have crossed had I seen it, the one to Skeppsholmen?  Ja, the Knitted House is there. 

*Glossary

Nämen – A colloquialism meaning “no but".  The Swedes say this a lot.  Both when they are happy or surprised (running into a good friend on the street – “Nämen, hej!") or in times of great irritation (this is the context used here).