Design Stockholm: August 2013

Wednesday, 28 August 2013

Kräftor - Sweden's Farewell to Summer

By the middle of August, the Swedes know all too well that the end of summer is near. The nights become longer, darker and cooler. There are even a few scatterings of early fallen leaves. As a final farewell to their beloved summer the Swedes have their Kräftor celebration - Kräftskiva. There is no particular day reserved for kräftor, rather an open time slot to celebrate when (and how often) you like. But it should fall within the last 2 or 3 weeks of August.

Kräftor are essentially crayfish, which are simply boiled in salt water and fresh dill. Kräftor are small and yield an alarmingly small, yet hard to attain, amount of meat. Especially when you consider the heavy emphasis (again) placed on drinking ... a lot.

If you are new to Sweden or want to celebrate like a Swede in your part of the world here are the basics.

1. Kräftor

You can use local crayfish (if you are not here in Sweden) or you can buy them at Ikea ready to eat after you thaw them. You can of coarse, if money's no object, use lobster instead. Might be more fulfilling and you may not get as drunk...or you just drink more. In Sweden you can get kräftor everywhere at any grocery store, either fresh or frozen.

2. New Potatoes

The Swedes have a surprising relationship to potatoes. They eat them at pretty much every celebration. The best ones for kräftskiva are still covered in dirt.

3. Sill (pickeled herring)

Like potatoes, sill is a Swedish staple. It comes in dill, cream or mustard sauce. There is a basic version of this in most grocery stores in Canada. Otherwise, yep, Ikea.

4. Snapps

Another term for it is Aquavit. You may be able to get this wherever you are but I think outside of Sweden and Northern Europe it is pretty rare. They call it snapps but it is herb flavoured hard liquor. You can make your own by letting caraway seeds sit in a bottle of vodka for a couple of days or weeks. Like Midsommar you are expected to enjoy drinking ridiculous amounts of hard liquor and beer (öl), which are accompanied by (or the cause of) the next Kräftskiva essential.

5. Drinking Songs

Swedes are quite reserved and composed. So it's surprising the silliness that unfolds during a booze fueled celebration. I can only imagine that the Vikings are to blame for this more, ahem, rowdy side of the Swedish disposition. Here are a couple of the most popular and well known drinking songs, with translation.

Helan går (a good starter song)

Helan går

Sjung hopp faderallan lallan lej

Helan går

Sjung hopp faderallan lej

Och den som inte helan tar

Han heller inte halvan får

Helan går

Sjung hopp faderallan lej

Drink it all down

Sing hopp faderallan lallan lej

Drink it all down

Sing hopp faderallan lej

And he who does not drink it all

Does not even deserve a half

Drink it all down

Sing hopp faderallan lej

Små Grodorna (the song that quacks about frogs)

Små Grodorna, små Grodorna

Är lustiga att se

Små Grodorna, små Grodorna

Är lustiga att se

Ej öron, ej öron, ej svansar hava de

Koack, ack, ack. Koack, ack, ack.

Koack ack ack ack kaa.

Little frog, little frog

So funny to see

Little frog, little frog

So funny to see

No ears, no ears, no tail do they have.

Koack, ack, ack. Koack, ack, ack.

Koack ack ack ack kaa.

You can certainly make up your own songs too. Just be sure to write them down as the best will likely be inspired by the most alcohol.

Skål!

Saturday, 3 August 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier in Stockholm

Jean Paul Gaultier Exhibit
Architecture Museum
Skeppsholmen, Stockholm
through to September 3 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier is one of my heros. I remember Gaultier making headlines when I was a kid in the early eighties. By that time he was showing at Paris Fashion Week and while some critics loved him, many found him to be too avant-garde, anticipating his eventual demise and departure from fashion and earning him the title Enfant Terrible. Gaultier not only stayed but became an international sensation and in the early 2000's began working for one of the oldest French fashion houses, Hermès. Gaultier also has a line of furniture for the posh French company Roche Bobois.

And there's his likability too. Everything I've ever seen or heard of Gaultier is that, despite his rise to the top to be one of the most influential and respected designers of all time, he never became arrogant or self-satisfied. As though the young rule-breaker is still there making clothes with a focused passion.

The exhibit chronicles Gaultier's ascent in the fashion world, his accomplishments and his influences.

But to be honest, I was too distracted by the clothes! The creativity and attention to material and detail are exquisite.

Here are some of my favorites:

Ball Gown

This beautiful gown reveals another more playful side within the lining. When the elegant lady lifts her skirt, she becomes a common Cancan dancer.

Pant Suit with Feathers

Pantsuit with parrot inspired feathers over chest and arms, fashioned as a bolero.

Native Bridal Gown

There is an interesting juxtaposition of the Native and Western cultures in this gown. At first glance, this gown looks to have a heavy Native influence but on further inspection the Western influences are many. First, the colour. White for brides is a traditional Western architype. The details on the skirt, especially those dropping from either hip, are reminiscent of a French or British soldier's uniform. The head dress is wonderful. This dress is a reflection on the clash, or marriage of (depends how you choose to perceive it) cultures during colonization.

Asian Outfit

I'm a sucker for the delicate elegance of Asian floral applications. I can't really pinpoint where in Asia this is meant to be inspired from. Perhaps the hat, sweater and vest suggest Tibet or Mongolia and the boots could be China or Japan. I love this and those boots!